Feeding Mississippi: Mississippi Food Network

eat.drink.Mississippi DecJan 2011eat. drink. Mississippi
December 2011/January 2012
Article and photos

There is no other time of year more closely associated with food than the holidays. Magazines dedicate entire issues to preparing the perfect holiday feast while fitness gurus preach about how to avoid the inevitable weight gain. However, for almost 600,000 Mississippians that live below the poverty level, a festive and food-filled holiday season seems more like an unattainable dream rather than a reality.

For over 27 years, the Mississippi Food Network (MFN) has been providing food and personal items to families in need all across the state. But what exactly does the face of hunger look like? Many may assume it only includes the homeless. However, hunger can affect working families that either don’t bring in enough income to meet their day-to-day needs or are hit with an unexpected expense that puts a strain on their finances. This means single parents or senior citizens who must choose between paying for a doctor’s visit or buying groceries. It also includes over 211,000 children that don’t receive enough food to meet their daily nutritional requirements.

“Ninety-seven percent of what we raise goes into funding programs to feed hungry people,” says Marilyn Blackledge, Director of External Affairs at MFN. “We try to utilize volunteers as much as we can to keep administrative costs down, in addition to holding food drives and purchasing items in bulk to receive discounts.”

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From its humble beginnings in 1983 in a 4,000 square foot converted church and abandoned fire station, the organization has grown to include 80,000 square feet of storage and office space, including its main warehouse in Jackson and a distribution center in Brookhaven. Throughout the year, MFN raises funds and stocks their shelves in a variety of ways. At the community level, the organization works with local companies to sponsor food drives in addition to raising money through individual donors, grants, and corporate sponsors.

As an affiliate member of Feeding America, the nation’s leading domestic hunger-relief charity and food bank network, MFN receives both food and monetary donations from several major corporations and retailers. In September, MFN was one of three food banks in the United States to win 30,000 pounds of chicken from Tyson Foods through a Facebook challenge in honor of Hunger Action Month.

“This will provide 120,000 servings of protein for us to distribute to our member agencies,” says Blackledge. “It is great to get a truckload of protein donated because we typically purchase staple food items with the funds we raise because they go further and are more affordable for us to purchase.”

Much of the food MFN takes in is distributed to over 320 outreach agencies across the state, including food pantries, shelters, soup kitchens, and Boys & Girls Clubs.

“There are a lot of children in Mississippi who the only meal they eat for the day is what they are served in school,” adds Blackledge. The organization feeds around 450 children through their Backpack Program, which provides backpacks full of non-perishable items for these children to take home to eat on the weekend. It also supplies healthy snacks such as fruit, milk, and peanut butter crackers to Boys & Girls Clubs throughout the Delta, in addition to breakfast and lunch via summer feeding sites and other afterschool programs around the state.

During the holidays, the organization does see an increase in need. All member agencies pack holiday packages for their clients and rely heavily on food drives to meet the demand.

“There are three ways people can help – donate money, donate food, or volunteer,” says Blackledge. “With the funds we raise, we purchase truckloads of food at wholesale cost, meaning every dollar we raise can provide seven meals. This is the best way for people to help us because we can stretch those dollars into more food. However, we always welcome groups or companies to conduct food drives for us. We get a lot of quality product that way.”

For individuals interested in donating their time, MFN hosts regular volunteer days on the second Saturday of every month from 9 a.m. – 12 p.m. at their main warehouse in Jackson. Groups or individuals interested in helping during the week are encouraged to call and schedule a time.

“Donations during the holidays are important. However, the demand for our services is year round,” adds Blackledge. “Our member agencies are serving more than 120,000 people each month and this number continues to grow.”

The Mississippi Food Network
440 W. Beatty Street
Jackson, MS 39201
601.353.7286
http://www.msfoodnet.org

Burgers, Fries, and Times Gone By: Brent’s Drugs

eat.drink.Mississippi DecJan 2011eat. drink. Mississippi
December/January 2012
Article and photos

In a time when the past is often forgotten in favor of the latest and greatest, a drive through the Fondren District of Jackson provides a refreshing snapshot into the city of yesteryear. The neighborhood streets, dotted with retro art deco architecture, pays homage to what many refer to as a simpler time. Fondren is also home to one of the city’s most beloved landmarks – Brent’s Drugs.

Pull into the parking lot of the Woodland Hills shopping center and the bright neon-red cursive of the Brent’s Drugs sign is one of the first things to catch the eye. Even though the restaurant and popular community hang out looks like something straight out of American Graffiti or Happy Days, at the time it opened in 1946, it was ahead of its time.

In the early 1940’s, an innovative land developer named Ed Morgan purchased a parcel of land with the intent of building something that was all the rage in California but no one in Mississippi had ever heard of – a shopping center. Dr. Alvin Brent was among Morgan Center’s first tenants when his combination pharmacy and soda fountain opened its doors in 1946. The shopping center, later renamed Woodland Hills, remains the oldest shopping center in Mississippi.

Dr. Brent’s son, Dr. Alvin Brent, Jr., was in the second grade when his father opened the establishment. “I remember thinking it wasn’t a good idea,” he said. “I was worried it wasn’t going to work out.” Brent’s fears were put to ease, however, when the soda fountain quickly became a popular after school hangout.

“You had the Duling School, Bailey Junior High School, and Murrah High School all close by,” Brent explains. “School let out at 3:15 in the afternoon and by 3:30 this place was full. Everyone raced to get here.”

Jerry Q. Tanner, Sr., another long-time patron, remembers how Brent’s became a frequent stop for local politicians looking to get some face time. “During elections, every politician from the Governor to the Lt. Governor would be in here shaking everybody’s hand.”

Brent, Sr., owned and operated Brent’s Drugs for 31 years before selling it to two long-time employees – pharmacists Paul Heflin and Bob Grantham. Grantham would later become sole owner of the establishment, selling it to pharmacist Randy Calvert in 1995. In 2009, the pharmacy-side of the business was sold to national drug-store chain CVS. Suddenly, the long-time neighborhood hangout threatened to close its doors forever.

Fondren resident Brad Reeves remembers the day in 2009 when he got a call from a friend to meet up for dinner. “He asks me if I wanted to buy Brent’s Drugs. I was already practicing law at the time and my initial reaction was ‘No.’” Later, when Reeves found out that the Calvert’s would be shutting down unless they found a buyer, he changed his mind. Reeves purchased the restaurant sans pharmacy in July of 2009.

With the exception of the pharmacy, Brent’s has remained relatively unchanged over the years. In addition to classic decor, the “self-service” order process provides another unique dining experience. Patrons fill out their own menu card, either at their table or at the bar. Selections include hamburgers, sandwiches, French fries, and Southern favorites like pimento cheese. Don’t forget to try one their famous milk shakes. Customers then take their menu card up to the counter and hand it to one of the servers.

In 2011, the small hometown hangout gained national notoriety with its onscreen debut in the film adaption of Kathryn Stockett’s novel, The Help. Because Brent’s Drugs is mentioned in Stockett’s book, Reeves contacted Lex Williams of Inverness who was working with the location coordinator for the film, Steve Mapel.

“He [Steve Mapel] came and looked at the restaurant. He liked what he saw, the only problem was we were a functioning restaurant,” Reeves explains. “We would have to shut down for a few days, but we would be compensated for any lost revenue.”

Reeves agreed and filming took place over one week in September 2010. “The night before they were supposed to start, I walked into the restaurant and it looked like I had just stepped into a time warp,” he recalls. “They did an amazing job with the research and the details. It really looked like you had just stepped back into 1963.”

Ed Swinney, who worked the soda fountain from 1953 – 1968 before leaving to become the first African American police officer for the Jackson Police Department, approved of the authenticity of the movie. “I was really impressed by the individual they chose to play the young man behind the counter in the movie,” Swinney commented. “I don’t know where they found him, but as I watched the film, I thought, ‘That could have been me back then.’”

The Help opened in August 2011 and quickly skyrocketed to the #1 movie in the country. Since then, Brent’s Drugs has gotten visitors from all over the country and even as far away as England and Africa.

“The movie is about to open in Europe, so we recently had a group of European journalists come in who were touring some of the movie locations,” Reeves reveals.

Six decades after opening its doors, Brent’s Drugs celebrated its 65th birthday. The celebration, which took place in October, brought together previous owners, employees and long-time patrons who recalled fond memories and shared their stories with a new generation of enthusiasts over burgers and milkshakes. The world has changed, but Brent’s Drugs continues to stand as a tribute to times gone by.

“There are not many businesses still around after 65 years,” Reeves adds. “This place represents the people that have lived and grown up in Jackson.”

Brent’s Drugs
655 Duling Avenue
Jackson, MS 39216
601.366.3427
http://www.brentsdrugs.com
Monday – Saturday 10am – 5pm
Sunday – 11am – 2pm

It All Began With Bacon

The Northside Sun
December 2010

Click here for PDF of original article.

Laurel Schooler doesn’t consider herself to be a cook. In fact, she hasn’t always been a baker. “My husband is a fabulous cook, but I have never been interested,” remarks the high school English teacher about her husband. “Our friends love to get together and have themed dinner parties. One particular party everyone was required to bring a dish with bacon in it. I didn’t want to be left out, so I thought since I don’t cook maybe I could bring dessert.”

Schooler did her research and found a recipe for dark chocolate and bacon cupcakes. “I didn’t even own any equipment. I mixed everything by hand,” she recalls. “As odd as the combination sounds, they were a success.”

Schooler, who is in her eighth year of teaching at Madison Central, shares her Meadowbrook Road home with her husband Josh, Associate Creative Director with the Ramey Agency; eleven-year-old son Blake; and two dachshunds – Ollie and Buster. They both attended the University of Southern Mississippi; however, they did not meet until years later when introduced by a mutual friend. The couple married eight years ago. On the outside, their home is an unassuming 1950’s ranch-style house. On the inside, the modern décor reflects the couple’s creative roots. The Schooler’s kitchen matches the contemporary look of the rest of the home. The previous owner lined the backsplash with galvanized steel, which the Schoolers use to display snippets of recipes and Blake’s artwork. This particular afternoon, all the ingredients for Bread Pudding Cupcakes are measured out on the kitchen counter. After combining cubed bread and dried cranberries with a little heavy whipping cream, melted butter, and spices, Schooler heads out to the dining room to give the bread time to soak. She sits down at a long wooden table outfitted with funky neon orange chairs and shares a story about the time the couple tried to mix meringue by hand with a whisk.

“Have you ever tried mixing meringue by hand? It was awful!” she laughs. “One of us would mix and when our arms got tired we’d pass it off to other person, ‘Here you mix for while.’” Soon after, Josh bought Schooler her lime green Kitchenaid stand mixer. “It is by far my favorite piece of equipment! This thing does everything!”

Inspired by the triumph of her first batch of cupcakes, Schooler began experimenting with other recipes. “My students became my guinea pigs,” she says. “They love it when I bring baked goods to class.” One student raved to his mother about Schooler’s cupcakes. His mother later approached her about baking a batch of cupcakes for an upcoming party she was having. “I was so excited! Finally, I had the opportunity to make cupcakes for someone else!” In between juggling a full-time career and her family, Schooler squeezes in the time to cater for family and friends. “I was recently asked to bake cupcakes for a wedding. Thursday night after work, I came home and spent the whole evening baking!”

Schooler has also expanded her hobby into retail. When Jim and Linda Burwell opened Mimi’s Family and Friends restaurant in Fondren this past spring, the Burwell’s daughter Heather– who also happens to be Schooler’s best friend from high school – suggested they carry her friend’s tasty creations. “The flavor changes from day-to-day. Sometimes they’ll ask for a certain theme, or a seasonal creation, or just whatever I’m in the mood for.”

By now, the cupcakes are in the oven and the house is beginning to smell like nutmeg. Schooler melts a stick of butter over the stove and stirs in an egg, sugar and a couple tablespoons of whiskey. She then fires up her lime green mixer and begins whipping a cup of heavy cream. The festive cupcakes remind her of one of her most ambitious baking projects – a seven layer coconut cake she made one year for Christmas dinner. “It was so tall that when I put it on the pedestal I couldn’t even fit the top over it!”

Once the whiskey sauce has cooled, she is able to fold it into the whipped cream. Schooler then spoons the mixture into an icing gun and pipes it onto her cooled cupcakes. As you bite into one of her individual treats, still slightly warm from the oven, the taste of cinnamon elicits holiday cheer.

Bread Pudding Cupcakes

Makes 18 cupcakes

Cupcakes:

  • 5 cups stale bread ripped into finger-length pieces (Bunny is my brand of choice)
  • ½ cup (1 stick) butter, melted
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
  • 1 ½ cups heavy whipping cream
  • ½ teaspoon Nutmeg
  • ½ teaspoon Cinnamon
  • 1/3 cup dried cranberries
  • 5 large eggs

Place bread in large bowl and stir in melted butter. Add all other ingredients and stir again. Let stand at room temperature for 25-30 minutes. Use an ice cream scoop and divide the mixture evenly among cupcake liners. Bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. Cupcakes are down when the tops are lightly browned and are springy to the touch.

Whiskey sauce:

  • ¼ cup butter (1/2 stick)
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 2 tablespoons of your favorite whiskey

Heat the butter, sugar, and egg in a small saucepan. Stir until fully integrated. Remove from stovetop and stir in vanilla and whiskey.

Whiskey Whipped Cream:

  • 1 cup heavy whipping cream
  • 2 tablespoons powdered sugar
  • 8 tablespoons whiskey sauce

Place whipping cream and sugar in stand-up mixer with whisk attachment. Beat on low to combine, then increase to medium-high speed until light and fluffy. Stir in whiskey sauce by hand until fully integrated. Top cooled cupcakes with the whipped cream.

Are you a clever cook or a brilliant baker and would like to be featured in the Northside Sun? Send an email to lisalbynum@hotmail.com.

A Spanish Spread – Whittington Style

The Northside Sun
November 2010

Click here for PDF of original article.

When it comes to cooking, Kay Whittington considers her husband of eight years to be the creative mastermind in the family. “I am a recipe follower,” explains Kay. “I like structure, whereas when Aven cooks, there is no recipe. He throws in a little bit of this and a little bit of that.”

Kay’s analytical thinking and Aven’s fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants approach to cooking should come as no surprise considering their chosen professions – Kay is an environmental engineer for the Department of Environmental Quality. Aven is the catering manager for Broadstreet Baking Company. Because of their busy work schedules, Kay usually handles meal-preparation during the week. “My parents went through a health-nut craze when I was growing up,” explains the Alabama native. “Our weeknights are usually reserved for quick, easy, pseudo-healthy meals.” However, the couple enjoys spending the weekend hanging out in the kitchen of their North Jackson home. Adds Kay, “You would expect after working all week that we would just want a quiet evening at home. But it’s not unusual for Aven to come home and say, ‘Hey, let’s have some friends over this weekend.’”

The Whittington’s kitchen is painted a bright apple green, colorful funky artwork is displayed on the wall, and the most interesting feature are the tin tiles on the ceiling. “I can’t take credit for that,” reveals Aven. “It came with the house, but we like it.” The room sets the stage for a relaxing Sunday evening meal. Aven stirs a pot of braised pork shoulder simmering in the stove in a bright orange LeCrueset pot, while Kay helps chop ingredients for homemade guacamole. The couple’s son, four-year-old Charlie, swoops through the room dressed in a Spiderman costume just long enough to see what’s available to snack on. Two-and-a-half year old Elizabeth, a little more quiet and reserved, cautiously peaks her head around the doorway from the living room.

Raised in Greenwood, Aven has always considered good eating a way of life. “I remember eating out in New Orleans and grew up associating that with a good time,” he explains. Aven spent his summers working on his Dad’s farm outside of Schlater, MS. “I would come home for lunch and I had to eat something, so I just started throwing things together that I thought would taste good.” Aven still takes that approach to cooking today. “I go to the grocery store and start planning my meals around what looks good or what looks interesting.” He enjoys making one-pot meals such as braised meats and vegetables.

“And he makes really good chocolate milk!” Charlie chimes in.

The meal starts out with plenty of hors d’oeuvres to jumpstart everyone’s appetite. In addition to homemade guacamole, Aven prepares spicy black bean cakes with guacamole and chipotle crème. Several years ago, Kay and Aven traveled to Columbia, South America, with a mutual friend who was also a native of the country. It was there that Aven was taught to make patagones – fried plantains with garlic mash. Aven cuts the plaintains – which are a relative of the banana- into large bite-sized pieces while Kay makes a paste out of garlic cloves and salt. Aven spreads the garlic paste over the top of each plantain, then covers them with waxed paper and mashes them with the bottom of the plate. The plantain forms a small patty, which Aven fries until golden brown. Given that they look like bananas, at first bite you would expect these little patties to be sweet. However, with the addition of the garlic and salt, they are uniquely savory and delicious. Rounding everything out is a sweet salsa made of cherries, balsamic vinegar, chopped red onions, and basil served over large butterflied grilled shrimp.

Because the couple enjoys cooking such unique meals, one might wonder what kind of food they feed the kids. “We weren’t going to give up eating good food or eating at great places just because we had kids,” Aven says, just as Elizabeth creeps in and peers over the top of the butcher block, her little fingers searching for a tortilla chip to dip into the guacamole. “We’ve taken them to eat at all types of different restaurants to eat, like Alice Water’s restaurant Chez Panisse [in Berkeley, CA]. They are really adventurous eaters.”

Don’t fill up on hors d’oeuvres, because homemade soft tacos with an array of fillings and toppings are on the menu as the main course. Aven fires up his grill and shows off his latest kitchen toy – a red La Plancha Cast-Iron Griddle from William Sonoma. Aven uses the griddle to sauté chopped veggies and shrimp. On the side, he places a half a head of cabbage over the hot flame to char the outside leaves and steam the inside of the cabbage. As everyone sits down, wonderful aromas fill the air. Warm tortillas are passed and guests dress their tacos with a selection of braised Spanish pork and sweet potatoes, grilled flank steak with charred cabbage and chimichuri, or chili glazed shrimp with caramelized cipollini onions. A light dessert of Kay’s homemade mango ice cream adds the perfect finishing touch to this Spanish-inspired meal.

Adds Aven, “In my opinion, cooking is a lot about presentation and how things look. I like mixing colors. If two items look good together, chances are they are going to taste good together.”

Spicy Grilled Shrimp Skewers with Balsamic Cherry Salsa

Shrimp Skewers:

  • Bamboo Skewers
  • 1 pound large shrimp (31-35 shrimp)
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon Cajun Seasoning (ex. Tony Chachere’s)
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1/2 tablespoon ground black pepper

Presoak skewers in water so that they don’t burn. Peel, devein, and butterfly shrimp. Thread shrimp long-ways on the bamboo skewer. Lightly coat shrimp with olive oil. Season with Cajun seasoning, paprika, and pepper. Grill quickly on a hot grill, allowing the shrimp to cook thoroughly and the seasonings to color. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Balsamic Cherry Salsa:

  • 1 medium purple onion, diced
  • 1 red bell pepper, d iced
  • 1 medium tomato, diced
  • 10-15 fresh basil leaves – chiffonade (stack and roll the leaves together and slice thinly)
  • 15-20 fresh cherries, pitted and diced (substitute other berries for interesting combinations)
  • 1-2 Jalapeno peppers, seeded and diced
  • 2 small sweet peppers, seeded and julienned
  • 1 Tablespoon lime Juice
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 4 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients and allow to sit overnight. The sugar and vinegar will breakdown the vegetables and fruit allowing the flavors to combine. Add hot sauce for an extra kick.

To assemble, spoon the salsa onto the shrimp allowing the butterflied shrimp to act as a spoon. Garnish with basil flowers.

Serves 8-10, around three shrimp per person

Cooking With the Crystals

The Northside Sun
June 2010

Click here for PDF of original article.

Soon after Bucky and Holly Crystal began dating, they discovered a shared passion for cooking.  When recalling the first time her future husband cooked dinner for her, Holly remembers him going above and beyond her expectations.  “I walked in and here is this beautiful roast chicken.  I was very impressed!”

Both Holly and Bucky credit their family as the primary influence for their love of cooking.  Growing up, Holly describes her mother as a “Good Housekeeping” mother.  “I remember other kids at school telling me they were having hamburgers for dinner and I would be so jealous.  A normal week night dinner at my house was beef stroganoff or coq au vin,” laughs Holly.  “It was a rare occasion that we ate out.  I definitely did not appreciate the trouble she went through when I was younger, but I do now.”

Bucky also credits his love of cooking to his mother in addition to Velma, the Crystal’s housekeeper when he was growing up.  “She made the world’s best fried chicken!”

Holly, who is originally from Kentucky, graduated from Mississippi State University and currently works as a paralegal for Brunini Law Firm in Jackson.  Bucky is a Mississippi native who graduated from Belhaven College and now works for Rockett, Inc., in Flowood.  He is currently working towards his MBA at Millsaps College.  The couple eloped to Big Sur, CA, in 2005.  Later that same year, they purchased their London Avenue home and began renovations three years ago.

As soon as guests enter the front door of the Crystal’s split level ranch house, they are greeted by the Crystal’s three dogs – Sierra, Callie, and Lulu.  Callie, an English Spaniel who loves to play “catch,” will plop down beside your chair, ball in mouth, and gaze at you with sad eyes until you agree to play.  In the background, the Crystal’s usually have a eclectic collection of tunes playing, which may include a little Phish, Son Volt, and Wilco.

To accommodate their tasty hobby, the Crystals completely remodeled the small galley kitchen that came with the house.  The kitchen now has an open floor plan and cozy seating area where Bucky and Holly can sit and flip through their large collection of cookbooks.  “I really like cookbooks with pictures,” Holly says.  “Beautiful pictures and how the food is presented is what sells the book for me.”  Holly’s favorite cookbook at the moment is Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes by Jeanne Kelley.  Bucky, a barbeque enthusiast, finds himself turning to The Barbeque Bible by Steven Raichlen.  Also displayed prominently on their kitchen counter is Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc at Home.

The kitchen’s most unusual feature is a modern black AGA range that resembles something your grandmother used to use.   The England-based company produces cast iron cookers coated in a hard enamel surface to produce a long-lasting, scratch and fade resistant appliance. “We had read about AGA stoves in several cooking magazines. We never thought we’d get one as typically they are enormous and require a structural engineer to survey your house prior to installing it,” explains Holly.  “The one we have is their newer, smaller model. We were drawn to it mainly for the configuration of the ovens and burners and that it is a dual fuel [gas burners/electric oven] stove.”

Holly starts the meal with an appetizer of Boursin cheese, thinned with a little half and half, mixed with chives and piped into fresh green endive leaves.  The creamy cheese provides just the right balance to the bitter endive and you find yourself unable to pop just one.  Next is a salad of butter lettuce topped with sliced apples and manchego cheese.  The salad is completed with a vinaigrette made with olive oil, white balsamic vinegar, sherry wine vinegar, and minced shallots.

The main course on tonight’s menu is smoked pheasant marinated in herbs and bourbon.  Before completing renovations on their house, the Crystals added an outdoor kitchen area featuring a large gas grill and Big Green Egg.  Once a year, Bucky makes a hunting trip to South Dakota, so it isn’t unusual for their freezer to be stocked with pheasant.  “Pheasant can be tricky to cook because it has a tendency to dry out very quickly,” explains Bucky.  “I enjoy experimenting with a lot of different cooking techniques.”

On the side, Holly prepares wild mushroom risotto with shitake and porcini mushrooms, and roasted Brussels sprouts.  Before turning up your nose at this leafy little wild cabbage, give Holly’s recipe a try.  Sautéed with bacon and shallots and topped with brown sugar, this recipe will turn the taste buds of even the most die hard Brussels sprout opponents.   For dessert, Holly arranges slices of fresh Anjou pears over a sheet of puff pastry.  She then folds up the corners and bakes in a 350 degree oven for twenty minutes.  She serves each slice with a dollop of vanilla ice cream and drizzles a thin sauce of Riesling wine, sugar, and water over top.

Bucky and Holly enjoy trying quirky new recipes together, particularly Thai food.  Holly also finds herself making a lot of comfort foods and soups. Because the couple enjoys entertaining, friends and family often benefit from the Crystal’s love of cooking.  Comments Holly, “It’s not unusual for us to prepare a whole meal and then invite people over to try it out.  Our friends don’t mind being guinea pigs!”

Holly’s Roasted Brussels Sprouts Caramelized Shallots

  • 1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, halved
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 2/3 cup thinly sliced shallots
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 ounce finely chopped bacon or pancetta
  • 4 teaspoons brown sugar
  • 2 teaspoons vermouth or cider vinegar

Preheat oven to 400°.  Arrange Brussels sprouts on a jelly-roll pan coated with cooking spray.  Drizzle with oil; toss to coat.  Bake at 400° for 15 minutes.  Add shallots, pepper, salt, and pancetta to pan; toss well.  Bake at400° for 10 minutes.  Add sugar and vermouth; toss to coat.  Bake an additional 10 minutes or until caramelized.

King of the Carnival: Paul’s Pastry

Mississippi Magazine
January/February 2010

King cakes have been a long-standing tradition for generations.  Originating in France during the 12th century, the circular cakes represent the journey of the three kings to Bethlehem to honor the Christ child.  For Sherri Paul-Thigpen, owner of Paul’s Pastry Shop in Picayune, king cakes are a way of life.  The second generation baker has been creating these colorful rings of sweet cake and cream cheese for almost 40 years.

Paul’s Pastry was founded by Thigpen’s parents, Harry and Shirley Paul, in 1970 when Thigpen was thirteen years old.  “I spent many afternoons after school and weekends helping out,” she recalls.  At the time, the Paul’s operated their bakery in an 855 square-foot facility.  When Thigpen officially took over the bakery in 1989 she began making expansions.  The bakery now operates in a 5,000 square foot facility and employs approximately 35 employees.

The season for king cake begins twelve days after Christmas and extends to Mardi Gras day, also known as Fat Tuesday. “Fifty-percent of our business is generated between December and February,” Thigpen explains.  She estimates they sell 52,000 king cakes during those months through in-store sales, off premise wholesale, and shipping.  Thigpen has shipped her cakes all across the United States, including a shipment every year to North Pole, Alaska.  For the last six years, Paul’s Pastry has shipped a king cake to every state on Fat Tuesday.

“We have even gotten requests to ship internationally,” she says.  “However, we like our cakes to reach their destination within 1-2 days to ensure freshness.  By the time the cakes make it through customs, they are usually four to five days old and well past their prime.”

While original king cakes were very simple with little to no decoration, today a typical king cake is brightly decorated with traditional Mardi Gras colors – gold, representing power; green, which represents faith; and purple for justice.  In 1972, Paul’s Pastry became the first bakery to fill their cakes with fruit and cream cheese.  They now offer the largest selection of flavors in the United States, with over 30 different varieties of filling such as Reece’s, Pina Colada, Pecan Praline, and Mississippi Mud.  Paul’s doesn’t just limit their king cakes to Mardi Gras.  The bakery offers brightly colored cakes for every season and special event including 4th of July, Christmas, birthdays, Mother’s Day, graduations, and wedding or baby showers.  Each cake includes the signature Mardi Gras “baby” hidden inside.

When asked what makes her cakes stand out from the rest, Thigpen credits a secret family recipe. “It’s not traditional pastry dough,” she explains. “It’s more like a sweet bread that really holds in the filling.  When you cut into the cake and take a bite, you get fruit and cream cheese in the same bite.”  Thigpen’s cream cheese filling is also a closely guarded secret recipe.

Attention to detail and a passion for quality have helped the family-owned bakery gain notoriety among the rich and famous.  Well-known patrons include Reba McIntyre, both President Bushes, Garth Brooks, and the cast of the popular Discovery Channel show Mythbusters.

In addition to their nationally famous cakes, family is another long-standing tradition that has now touched three generations.  Thigpen’s daughter works as the office manager and her son-in-law serves at the production manager.  It is a tradition Thigpen hopes will continue for another 40 years.

Paul’s Pastry Shop
1 Sycamore Rd # A
Picayune, MS 39466-2666
1-800-669-5180
(601) 798-7457